Up in the Blue Mountains, amongst the World Heritage listed bushland, spectacular views, great restaurants and twee antique shops, lies another often overlooked aspect of a ‘Mountain Retreat’. The raunchy weekend escape. Only a brief journey from Sydney’s CBD, say two hours by car in dense traffic or the same time in a train, you will find the campiest over-the-top hotel in the mountains, the Hydro-Majestic in Medlow Bath. It can’t be missed. A few kilometres past Katoomba, on the left and hanging on to a cliff’s edge with drop dead amazing views over the Megalong Valley, the ‘Hydro’ sprawls disjointedly.

Acquired recently by a private hotel group it is being renovated after years of neglect. As of late 2009, the old tart is looking decidedly swish. The gardens, tennis court and pool have all had a makeover in keeping with the mountain’s heyday as an ersatz Mittel-Europe alpine retreat for Sydney’s wealthy elite. The last un-renovated wing however contrasts starkly to the ‘returned to 20s’ glamour of the refurbished areas and should be avoided when booking.

Yes. Twenties, as in ‘Roaring Twenties’. This building has a past. Have a look at the historical photo gallery lining the corridor on the way to the Dining Room. Don’t tell me that eighty years ago the guests weren’t doing the naughty weekend fling. The ‘Hydro’ reeks with kinky atmosphere. Spooky even. Floorboards creak. The wind whistles eerily. Ghostly glimpses of shadows appear around corners. It’s like a Hammer Horror film set come to life if you’ve had a few cocktails. (Bloody Mary anyone?) This can be fun as well if you share an enthusiasm for Grand Guignol vaudeville. I liked it.

The welcoming staff are professional and congenial. The evening meals are above hotel standard but the breakfasts are still suffering from bain-marie buffet syndrome. A pity because the Breakfast Room has those eye-popping views over the valley and the food doesn’t match the location. Surely eggs cooked to order aren’t too much to ask.

Request a valley view room unless you want to look at the highway traffic. Of course, a raunchy escape shouldn’t depend on views but the ‘Hydro’ certainly has the special effects. Full marks for atmosphere.